Beautiful Deer Resistant Plants

It’s coming. You can feel it. When school starts, Indian Summer usually starts, too, and it won’t be long before we’ll be basking in lots of sunshine.

Fall is just around the corner and most flowering perennials and annuals will continue to bloom until Halloween and maybe into November if the weather cooperates. My garden is mostly blue, pink and lavender but I like to add warm colored flowers and foliage plants to the garden now to enjoy for the next several months.

Living in mostly shade I’m excited to see a new impatien in a peach color. Envoy peach butterfly sport a profusion  flowers with dark coral centers. This series also comes in bicolor rose and lavender shades which are equally showy. They really light up the shade garden.

There are many flowering plants that ease us into fall. Whether they bloom with red, orange, yellow, bronze or rust flowers, the colors seem appropriate at this time of year. Some of my favorites are kangaroo paw, erysimum ‘Fragrant Sunshine’, mimulus, strawflowers, asteriscus, lantana, coreopsis, mums and zinnia. Orange clock vines are one of the showiest around. They need protection here to survive the winter but the huge 3" long, bright orange flowers are worth the risk.

Gloriosa daisy or rudbeckia now come in so many new colors. Cherry Brandy produces beautiful masses of cherry red flowers to add to your traditional rusty colors. All are tough and easy to grow and they make a good cut flower for bouquets.

Don’t forget warm foliage colors like coprosma, Golden Delicious pineapple sage and red fountain grass to play off the bold colors of your fall flowers. By mixing in a liberal doses of grasses and shrubs you’ll have a garden that won’t quit until it gets cold.

Remember the color wheel to add additional colors to your warm autumn garden. Blue is the complementary color of orange and purple or lavender goes with yellow and gold. Cool down hot colors with blue flowering perennials like blue plumbago, Aster frikartii Monch, Russian sage, blue ground morning glory and scabiosa. Lilac or purple flowers include lavatera bicolor, Midnight penstemon, verbena, princess flowers, salvia and annuals like torenia and lobelia.
 

Deer Resistant and Beautiful,too

I’m standing just inside my screen door watching a young doe and her fawn browse on plants that are suppose to be "deer resistant". They are only about 5 ft from me and not really doing much damage yet. I see deer all the time but I confess, I am mesmerized. The fawn is so cute and still covered with spots. Then the doe reaches up and takes a bite from my variegated hanging fuchsia. I have been meaning to spray it with deer repellent but just haven’t gotten around to it. I quietly say "Don’t eat that" from behind the screen door. She looks all around- up, down, sideways- but can’t figure out where the voice is coming from. Deciding she wants no more of the talking fuchsia she rambles on followed by her little one.

It’s frustrating living in deer country. Fencing is expensive and deer repellent sprays need to be applied on a regular basis to be effective. What is safe from browsing in one yard is breakfast in another. Don’t be discouraged. Plants like lavender, sage, canna and calla lily, erysimum, euryops, lysimachia and grasses are top performers around deer. But if you’re itching to add something new to your garden try one of these.

Agastache is a long-blooming perennial with leaves that smell like licorice, sprearmint or lemon depending on the species. Also called Orange Hummingbird Mint, Anise or Lemon Hyssop, the leaves can be used in teas and the flowers are a hummingbird favorite.Their strong odor and flavor repel deer. Most grow 2-3 ft tall in sun or partial shade, are drought tolerant, long-lived, insect and disease resistant, non-invasive and need no staking. They also thrive with little deadheading or dividing. What’s not to love about agastache?

Need a vigorous groundcover that can compete with tree roots? Ceratostigma plumbagiodes or Dwarf Plumbago grows in sun or shade. Being drought tolerant it’s a good choice under native oaks. Electric blue flowers are showy in summer and fall and are set off by rich scarlet autumn foliage as the weather cools. They look great in front of golden foliage plants like coleonema ‘Sunset Gold’.  A light pruning in spring makes them look their best.s Easy to grow, spreading but not invasive, deer, pest and disease resistant they are true workhorses in the garden.

My last suggestion for a high-impact, low-care, deer resistant plant is Brilliance Autumn Fern. This is no ordinary looking fern. Striking as a specimen on it’s own or massed as a groundcover to create a glowing display, the fronds of this classy fern start out a shiny red-orange and hold the color long into the season before maturing to a glossy green. Combine these coppery new fronds with hellebore and ligularia to add zest to a container or shady garden. Another plus- they are pest free and not troubled by thrips that may infest other ferns like the western sword fern.

Add one of these new plants to your garden and welcome Bambi. We can all get along.

Spider Mites

That’s a good question
If you notice the leaves on some of your plants appear stippled or flecked with pale dots and have fine webbing, especially on the undersides, you have a spider mite infestation. These pests thrive during dry weather and their populations can get out of hand by August.

Mites puncture plant cells with their mouthparts, then suck the plant fluid. The tiny areas of leaf tissue that have been killed appear as tiny dots on the the leaves. Mites often go unnoticed because they are tiny and natural controls such as weather and predators frequently keep their populations low. Severe infestations often result because these natural controls have been disrupted by pesticides and excessive dust.

Control spider mites on fruit and nut trees, azalea, fuchsia, maples and rose by regular, forceful spraying of plants with water to rinse dust and dirt off both sides of leaves. If you do have to spray to control an outbreak use insecticidal soap or a light spray oil. Sulfur is effective in reducing populations of some spider mites but this dust can disrupt beneficial predaceous mites.

Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides which disrupt biological controls. When applied for other pests during hot weather, these can cause dramatic outbreaks of mites within just a few days even though their label may say they control mites.

Although a young or weak plant may not survive a severe spider mite infestation, it is not usually fatal to a vigorously growing tree or plant. The best defense is a good offense – periodically spray your plants with water in the morning to keep them clean and dust free.

Planting Cool Season Vegetables

August is a month of transition in the garden. Some plants like dahlias and crape myrtles  are in full glory while others are starting to wind down. If you look closely, dormant flower and leaf buds are just starting to form on lilacs, rhododendrons and camellias. Seems we’re still waiting for summer it’s been so cool but many plants count night time hours and it’s getting darker earlier and earlier.

Time to plant seeds for cool season vegetables. Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, spinach, lettuce, kale, mustard, brussels sprouts and collards in containers. Fill flats or pots with potting mix and moisten the mix thoroughly before planting. Sow seeds of carrots, onions, beets, peas and radishes directly in the ground after amending soil with compost.

Cool season vegetables grow best and produce the best quality crops when average temperatures are between 55 and 75 degrees although they can tolerated slight frost when mature. The food value of cool season vegetables is usually higher per pound and per square foot than that of warm season vegetables because the edible parts of the plant are the vegetative parts-such as roots, stems, leaves and immature flower parts-rather than the fruits.

Examples include_
root – beet, carrot, parsnip, radish, turnip
stem – asparagus, white potato, onion
leaf – cabbage, celery ( fleshy  petiole ), lettuce, spinach
immature flower – broccoli, cauliflower, artichoke
 

Planting Cool Season Vegetables

August is a month of transition in the garden. Some plants like dahlias and crape myrtles  are in full glory while others are starting to wind down. If you look closely, dormant flower and leaf buds are just starting to form on lilacs, rhododendrons and camellias. Seems we’re still waiting for summer it’s been so cool but many plants count night time hours and it’s getting darker earlier and earlier.

Time to plant seeds for cool season vegetables. Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, spinach, lettuce, kale, mustard, brussels sprouts and collards in containers. Fill flats or pots with potting mix and moisten the mix thoroughly before planting. Sow seeds of carrots, onions, beets, peas and radishes directly in the ground after amending soil with compost.

Cool season vegetables grow best and produce the best quality crops when average temperatures are between 55 and 75 degrees although they can tolerated slight frost when mature. The food value of cool season vegetables is usually higher per pound and per square foot than that of warm season vegetables because the edible parts of the plant are the vegetative parts-such as roots, stems, leaves and immature flower parts-rather than the fruits.

Examples include_
root – beet, carrot, parsnip, radish, turnip
stem – asparagus, white potato, onion
leaf – cabbage, celery ( fleshy  petiole ), lettuce, spinach
immature flower – broccoli, cauliflower, artichoke
 

Bouquets from Your own Garden

A gardener’s life:  water, prune, plant, rake, weed, stake. Repeat as necessary. Then smell the roses, harvest the vegetables and It’s great to be out in the garden among your beautiful plants. Reward yourself and bring the outside in.

Have you ever seen the spectacular arrangements made weekly for the mansion at Filoli Gardens in Woodside? They are truly breathtaking, composed of whatever plants and flowers happen to catch the eye of the harvester. You can have this too for your own dining room table, kitchen, bedroom or bath.

Until about 100 years ago, one of the most important areas of any large garden was the cutting garden, where flowers were harvested like a crop and taken inside for display. Today our lifestyles and tastes are reflected in bouquets that are more casual. The bouquets you make from garden grown flowers, interesting foliage branches, grasses, vines and even herbs always seem to have more personality and cottage garden softness than ones bought from the store.

While just about any plant material that strikes your fancy will work in a mixed bouquet there are four types of plant forms that naturally look good togetherSpires for height and architectural properties ( liatris, snapdragon,gladiola, salvia, Bells-of-Ireland),  Round for focus ( roses, dahlias, long-stemmed marigolds, peonies), lacy for fillers ( ferns, baby’s breath, dill ) , foliage ( abelia, breath of heaven, Calif. bay ), and ornamental grasses.

Here are some unsung beauties to grow and add to your arrangements.
* Love-lies-bleeding ( Amaranthus caudatus ) Long, to 18", pendulous ropes of red flower clusters. Handsome mixed with bold companions like zinnias and sunflowers. Good dried flower.
* Bells-of-Ireland ( Moluccela laevis ) Showy, apple-green flower spikes, long lasting in either fresh or dried arrangements.
* Transvaal daisy ( Gebera jamesonii) Perennial, long-stemmed varieties bloom nearly year round with peaks in early summer and late fall. Prized cut flower. Split stem end, dip in boiling water and stand in deep water with sugar for long vase life.
* Lisianthus. Perennial grown as an annual. Flowers resemble roses in shade of purplish-blue, pink, and white. Blooms all summer on strong stalks.
*Pink muhly grass ( Muhlenbergia capillaris) airy plumes of feathery, deep rosy-pink flowers on tall stems. Drought tolerant.

There are so many plants to use in bouquets. Don’t forget grapes and other vines, herbs, woody trees branches and shrub foliage look great, too

The best time to cut is early in the morning. Cut non-woody stems on a slant for maximum water absorption. Cut woody stems straight across and smash the ends. Plunge immediately in a bucket of tepid water. Indoors, fill the kitchen sink with cool water and recut each stem under water so an air bubble doesn’t keep the water from being absorbed.

Then pull off any foliage or flowers that will be below the water level in the vase. Fill the vase with lukewarm water. You can add cut flower food but I find that changing the water every two days and making sure no foliage is under water works just as well.

If a plant isn’t working our or is spent in your arrangement just remove it. The main thing is to have a garden that you love both inside and out.